Snowy Drive Around Fairbanks
November 9, 2010
I’ve been trying to figure out a way to mount my camera to my dash without leaving sticky on either one. I finally found a strip of double sided mounting tape in the back of a junk drawer and the lightbulb went off in my head. So here is the test run. It’s just a simple trip into town to go to lunch with friends and then to the gym but shows a bit of Fairbanks for those who are interested. Keep in mind that Fairbanks is pretty spread out for the population we have.
I uploaded it to Vimeo since it was a bit too long for Youtube.
Yesterday, Cinco de Mayo it snowed most of the day. Yes, May 5th. It was a warm 38 here at the cabin so it didn’t stick but did get a bit of a build up for a while. I took a few video clips throughout the day and put them together here.
Wow who knew it costs $60 for a video upgrade to be able to embed that directly here in my blog? So yea, follow the link to my Youtube channel lol.
Since I was up at midnight and noticing that it was still a bit light out I took a screen shot from one of the webcams in town (too lazy to get my camera out and mess with downloading and uploading.) It’s says 1:04 am but it was really 12:04 am (camera doesn’t do daylight savings time). You can really tell by looking out on the hill in the back ground.
Sunrise is at 4:59 AM AKDT and sunset it 10:39 PM AKDT.
Length Of Visible Light: 20h 29m
Length of Day 17h 39m
Tomorrow will be 7m 2s longer.
We are gaining light at a crazy speed and will continue to do so until Summer Solstice which occurs on June 21st this year.
So, what are your Solstice Plans this year? We normally attend the Midnight Sun Baseball game. When you live in a world with such a variance of light and dark, it’s common to celebrate our uniqueness. There are lots of parties, festivals, bon fires, and picnics for Summer Solstice. For Winter Solstice, the celebrations tend to indoor revelries with good friends, good food, and good cocktails as it is too cold to party outdoors (for most people lol).
THE MIDNIGHT SUN GAME:
“BASEBALL’S MOST NATURAL PROMOTION”In the entire baseball world, there is no team that has more natural a promotion than the Alaska Goldpanners and their celebrated Midnight Sun Game.
Since the Goldpanners are the farthest north baseball club on the face of the earth, where in summer the sun rarely stops shining, the team annually takes advantage of its unique geographic location by staging the patented Midnight Sun Baseball Game.
With Fairbanks a mere 160 miles south of the Arctic Circle, the sun is just beginning to set in the north as the game gets under way and, at its conclusion some three hours later, the sun begins to rise again – also in the north.
It is a phenomenon ever so rare.
Each June 20, 21, 22, each equal in time as the longest day of the year (with a full 24 hours of daylight in the vast Tanana Valley), the Panners begin their widely acclaimed contest at 10:30 p.m. The game continues straight through the hour of midnight and often lasts as late as 2 a.m.
Never once has artificial lighting been used for this unique event, and never has the game been postponed or delayed because of darkness.
The “high noon at midnight” classic, as best can be determined, originated in Fairbanks in 1906. Every year since it has become a ritual to play the game on the solstice.
The tradition was adopted by the Panners in 1960, their first season of operation. Through 1962, the Panners met the North of the Range All-Stars but, since 1963, a different opponent – usually from out of state – has been invited each year to participate in the symbolic event.
2006 MSG
In the entire baseball world, there is no team that has more natural a promotion than the Alaska Goldpanners and their celebrated Midnight Sun Game.Since the Goldpanners are the farthest north baseball club on the face of the earth, where in summer the sun rarely stops shining, the team annually takes advantage of its unique geographic location by staging the patented Midnight Sun Baseball Game.
With Fairbanks a mere 160 miles south of the Arctic Circle, the sun is just beginning to set in the north as the game gets under way and, at its conclusion some three hours later, the sun begins to rise again – also in the north.
It is a phenomenon ever so rare.
Each June 20, 21, 22, each equal in time as the longest day of the year (with a full 24 hours of daylight in the vast Tanana Valley), the Panners begin their widely acclaimed contest at 10:30 p.m. The game continues straight through the hour of midnight and often lasts as late as 2 a.m.
Never once has artificial lighting been used for this unique event, and never has the game been postponed or delayed because of darkness.
The “high noon at midnight” classic, as best can be determined, originated in Fairbanks in 1906. Every year since it has become a ritual to play the game on the solstice.
Brooks Range Trip, ANWR.
April 24, 2010
A few years ago I went up to do some hiking in ANWR (Arctic National Wildlife Refuge). I wanted to be sure to get out there before any oil wells were put in. I had put together a trip report that was hosted on my old site which I have since taken down. So, I thought I would repost it here. It was a most excellent trip.
For those of you who are fans of the History Channels Ice Road Truckers, this is the road they drive on here in Alaska.
This post is long and picture intensive. It took me most of the day to load it. I hope it is enjoyed by many!
The Brooks Range and the Dalton Highway, Alaska.
August 2006
A Unique Gateway to the Far North
The Dalton Highway stretches 414 miles across northern Alaska from Livengood (84 miles north of Fairbanks) to Deadhorse and the oilfields of Prudhoe Bay. Built during construction of the trans-Alaska oil pipeline in the 1970s, this mostly gravel highway travels through rolling, forested hills, across the Yukon River and Arctic Circle, through the rugged Brooks Range, and over the North Slope to the Arctic Ocean. Along most of its length, you’ll see no restaurants, no gift shops, no service stations – just forest, tundra, and mountains from horizon to horizon, crossed by a double ribbon of road and pipe.
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) manages a swath of public lands along the highway from the Yukon River to the north side of the Brooks Range. Within the Dalton Corridor, BLM maintains campgrounds, rest areas, interpretive panels and a visitor center.
BLM Alaska Dalton Highway Guide Main Page
Haul Road or Highway?
During its early years, most Alaskans referred to the highway simply as the “Haul Road,” because of its heavy use by tractor-trailer rigs hauling supplies and equipment to the North Slope for oil development. In 1981 the highway was named after engineer James B. Dalton, who was involved in early oil exploration efforts on the North Slope. Public access remained limited until 1994, when it became possible to drive all the way to Deadhorse.
Today, the Dalton Highway beckons adventurous souls to explore a still-wild and mysterious frontier. Respect this harsh land and appreciate the opportunity to visit a special part of our world.
We ended up following a tour bus for quite a while. It was just too rough to pass.
The Yukon River Bridge is wooden, and built on an incline. I think it is a 6% grade.
Built for Black Gold
In 1969, oil was discovered at Prudhoe Bay on Alaska’s North Slope. Excitement was high at the prospect of new money to fuel Alaska’s boom-and-bust economy. The nation was in the throes of an energy crisis and pushed for an 800-mile long pipeline. But first, Native land claims had to be settled, permits granted, environmental safeguards designed, and a road built to get workers and supplies north to the oilfield.
When finally approved, construction of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline was run like a wartime project—money was no object and time was of the essence. The weather conditions, terrain, and the immensity of the project were all extreme. Engineers overcame permafrost, mountain ranges, and the relentless flow of the Yukon River in the process. Incredibly, the haul road was completed in just five months and the pipeline in three years (1974-77). The previously remote Arctic was changed forever.
Yukon River (MP 56)
The mighty Yukon River winds nearly 2,000 miles (3,200km) from Canada to the Bering Sea. Athabascan people first traveled this river in birchbark canoes. During the gold rush, wood-fired sternwheelers ferried gold seekers and supplies for trading posts. Today, Yukon River residents use motorboats in summer and snowmachines in winter to travel this natural highway.
Pipeline Quick Facts
¤ The Trans-Alaska Pipeline System was designed and constructed to move oil from the North Slope of Alaska to the northern most ice- free port- Valdez, Alaska.
¤ Length: 800 miles.
¤ Diameter: 48 inches.
¤ Crosses three mountain ranges and over 800 rivers and streams.
¤ Cost to build: $8 billion in 1977, largest privately funded construction project at that time.
¤ Construction began on March 27, 1975 and was completed on May 31, 1977.
¤ First oil moved through the pipeline on June 20, 1977.
¤ Over 14 billion barrels have moved through the Trans Alaska Pipeline System.
¤ First tanker to carry crude oil from Valdez: ARCO Juneau, August 1, 1977.
¤ Tankers loaded at Valdez: 16,781 through March 2001.
¤ Storage tanks in Valdez- 18 with total storage capacity of 9.1 million barrels total.
¤ The mission of Alyeska’s Ship Escort Response Vessel System is to safely escort tankers through Prince William Sound.
Specially designed vertical supports were placed in drilled holes or driven into the ground. In warm permafrost and other areas where heat might cause undesirable thawing, the supports contain two each, 2-inch pipes called “heat pipes,” containing anhydrous ammonia, which vaporizes below ground, rises and condenses above-ground, removing ground heat whenever the ground temperature exceeds the temperature of the air. Heat is transferred through the walls of the heat pipes to aluminum radiators atop the pipes.
The hiway must be closed when an airplane is landing on this strip, a wide spot in the road.
The pipeline zig zags to allow for expansion.
Arctic Circle Wayside (MP 115)
The Arctic Circle is an imaginary line at latitude 66° 33’ North, where the sun stays above the horizon for one full day on summer solstice (June 21), and below the horizon for one full day on winter solstice (December 21).
We got a certificate at the Coldfoot Arctic Interagency Visitor’s Center for crossing the Arctic Circle.
Alaska’s Record Fire Year
2004 was Alaska’s biggest fire year since records began. Hot, dry, windy weather fanned the flames over 6.7 million acres, an area the size of Massachusetts. Similar conditions returned in 2005, the 3rd biggest year with over 4.4 million acres (1,780,617 ha) burned. Between Hess Creek and Coldfoot fields of bright pink fireweed, an early colonizer of burned areas, lead the way for regrowth that will eventually feed much more wildlife.
Grayling Lake Wayside (MP 150)
An ancient glacier carved this U-shaped valley and left a shallow lake. Moose feed on the nutrient-rich aquatic plants in summer. Charcoal, stone scrapers, and other artifacts found nearby indicate that Native hunters used this lookout for thousands of years.
Coldfoot (MP 175)
The original gold rush town of Coldfoot was located on the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River near the mouth of Slate Creek. It got its name in 1900 when early prospectors reportedly got “cold feet” and left before winter set in.
They have the wonderful Arctic Interagency Visitor’s Center. From here you can also check out Bear Resistant Food Containers (BRFC) at no charge for trips into the Brooks Range.
Yes, it was rainy…
While stopping at Coldfoot to eat I looked out the window of the cafe/gas station and noticed this family on motorcycles. I realized right away that they were the ones who were featured recently in our news paper. Mom, dad, and the two kids had traveled from South America and were almost to their goal of Prudhoe Bay. I immediately went out to meet them. It was exciting. They were actually just hoping to make this last couple of hundred miles before the bikes were totally worn out. The mom had lost her top gear and the dad was having problems with his bike too but I forgot what he said they were. The kids were funny.
Next Services 240 miles.
Know Before You Go!
Traveling this farthest-north road involves real risks and challenges.
Services are available at only a few places along the Dalton Highway, so proper planning is essential. There are no public services at Department of Transportation maintenance stations or Alyeska Pipeline Service pump stations.
Medical Facilities. There are no public emergency medical facilities along the Elliott or Dalton Highways. In a critical emergency, contact the state troopers by calling 911 or use a CB radio (channel 19).
Banking. There are no banks along the highway. The only ATM machine is located in Deadhorse. Most services accept major credit cards.
Repairs. Tire and repair services are available only at Yukon Crossing, Coldfoot and Deadhorse.
Groceries. There are no full-service grocery stores along the highway. Snack food and cafes are available at Yukon Crossing, Five Mile, Coldfoot and Deadhorse.
Water clear enough to see the rocks at the bottom of a river is actually kind of rare up here as the water is normally full of glacial silt, giving it a milky look.
Farthest North Spruce (MP 235)
As you approach the headwaters of the Dietrich River, trees grow scarce until they disappear altogether. This last tall spruce, approximately 273 years old, was killed by a vandal in 2004.
Atigun Pass (MP 244)
You cross the Continental Divide at Atigun Pass (elev. 4,739ft). Rivers south of here flow into the Pacific Ocean or Bering Sea, while rivers to the north flow into the Arctic Ocean. Watch for Dall sheep, which are often on the road or on nearby slopes. Storms can dump snow here even in June and July. This is just the beginning. I didn’t get any good pictures going OVER Atigun Pass as I was too busy either driving, or holding on…
Galbraith Lake (MP 275)
This is all that remains of a large glacial lake that once occupied the entire Atigun Valley. Just downstream from the bridge is the spectacular Atigun Gorge and the western boundary of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
This is where we made our base camp. There is a small BLM primitive camp area and a gravel airstrip. Gailbrath Lake is in the background. Life’s necessity is in the foreground.
Eh, he’s not a morning person.
Neither am I.
Colors abound!!!!
Gates of the Arctic National Park is just a 2-3 hour hike over that hill. Our goal was to hike in ANWR so we didn’t have time to go there also though that would have been really unique, to hike in the two largest national parks in the world, on the same day.
Atigun River Gorge and Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, ANWR!
Atigun Pass
Sukakpak Mountain (MP 203)
A massive wall rising to 4,459 feet (1,338 m) that glows in the afternoon sun, Sukakpak Mountain is an awe-inspiring sight. Peculiar ice-cored mounds known as palsen punctuate the ground at the mountain’s base. “Sukakpak” is an Inupiat Eskimo word meaning “marten deadfall.” Seen from the north, the mountain resembles a carefully balanced log used to trap marten.
Finger Mountain Wayside (MP 98)
The largest tor in the surrounding area.
The windshield had been cracked by a wreck the previous owner had, but we got this pretty big rock hole for a souvenir of our trip.
Oh it was a muddy, slippery, pot holed, washboard trip!
Exploring the Northern Landscape
The Boreal Forest
Livengood to Coldfoot (MP 0-175)
A cold, dry climate and sporadic permafrost dictate what grows here. Those scraggly spruce trees may be more than a century old! Lightning-caused wildfires benefit wildlife by recycling nutrients into the soil and creating new sources of food and shelter. The largest forest ecosystem in the world, the boreal forest circles the northern hemisphere.
The Brooks Range
Coldfoot to Galbraith Lake (MP 175-275)
Steep, rocky slopes and glacier-carved valleys dominate this rugged landscape. Extending over 700 miles (1120 km) from east to west, the Brooks Range creates a formidable barrier across the Arctic for plants, birds, and weather systems.
The North Slope
Galbraith Lake to Last Chance
(MP 275-355)
This far north, the sun never sets between May 10 and August 2, and never rises between November 18 and January 23. Only tough, ground-hugging plants can survive the frozen ground, frigid temperatures, icy winds, and weak sunlight.
The Coastal Plain
Last Chance to the Arctic Ocean
(MP 355-414)
Annual precipitation is only about 5 inches (13 cm) but underlying permafrost seals the ground. Water remains on the surface in vast wetlands where protein-rich sedges and huge populations of insects thrive, providing a banquet for migratory birds and other wildlife.
How cold does it get in winter?
The coldest temperature ever recorded in the United States was -80°F/-62°C at Prospect Camp, 39 miles (62 km) south of Coldfoot in 1971. Winter temperatures in Interior and Arctic Alaska commonly range between -20°F/-29°C and -40°F/-40°C, or colder.
Most of the land you see from the Dalton Highway is federal public land, a legacy for future generations. These areas are so unique that Congress established special designations which honor their special values to the nation and the world.
Utility Corridor
In 1971 after oil was discovered on the North Slope, the Utility Corridor was established to protect the route of the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. The Corridor’s boundaries vary from less than a mile to nearly 12 miles from the pipeline. While the corridor’s primary function is the transportation of energy resources, the Bureau of Land Management encourages recreational activities such as hiking, fishing, gold panning, and canoeing on these lands.
Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve
Much of the Brooks Range west of the Dalton Highway lies within one of the premier wilderness areas in the National Park System. Forester and conservationist Robert Marshall explored the area in the 1930s. Impressed by two massive peaks flanking the North Fork of the Koyukuk River, he called them the “Gates of the Arctic.” Encompassing 8.4 million acres, the park and preserve protect primeval landscapes, their flora and fauna, and the culture and traditions of Native people.
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR)
Bordering the Utility Corridor near Atigun Canyon, this refuge extends east across the Brooks Range and North Slope to Canada. It offers extraordinary wilderness, recreation, and wildlife values. The Porcupine Caribou Herd (named for the Porcupine River on the herd’s migration route), polar bears, muskoxen, and snow geese depend on its unspoiled environment. Pioneer Alaska conservationists Margaret and Olaus Murie traveled the region by dog team and canoe, and were instrumental in gaining refuge status for the area.
Kanuti National Wildlife Refuge
Located west of the Finger Mountain area and slightly larger than the state of Delaware, this refuge protects large wetland areas that are critical to nesting waterfowl and other wildlife. These resources provide sustenance for the people of the Koyukuk River valley.
Yukon Flats National Wildlife Refuge
Encompassing an area larger than Vermont and Connecticut combined, this refuge protects a vast complex of lakes and rivers in the Yukon watershed upstream from the Dalton Highway. Wildlife, especially migratory birds such as ducks, geese, and songbirds, thrive in these wetlands and support the hunting and gathering tradition of Yukon River villages.
Dry cabins
April 22, 2010
Since they are so common here in the Interior, I thought I would share the ones in our newspaper. Actually, there aren’t that many today. Normally there are more.
Log cabin for rent. 2 bdr + loft, Electricity + toyo heat on 2 Acre lot. $600/m + dep. …
Cozy 16×16 w/loft + great H2O. 3.2 mi Gilmore Trl. $600 w/ $400 dep + utils. No dogs/smok.
Dry cabins available $450/month. Utilities are not included.Free highspeed internet.More information at www.greencabinsalaska.com or call 455-4500.
Avail 04/01! Peaceful, Private loft style dry cabin, inc a beautiful sauna & newly constructed, never used outhouse. Private campfire ring & bbq pit, DSL Wi-Fi, $600/m 1st, last, sec dep. Pet on app.
12X16 dry log cabin w/porch in Fox, $450 + sec. dep. elect. fuel propane. Absolutely Alaskan Real Estate Services, …
1 mi to UAF. Like New, 16×20, 2 story, clean, spacious. Carpet, quality kitchen, very warm, no H2O. $600 + util. No pets. Avail. 5/1
$600
Cozy 288sf furn. cabin on Chena Ridge. Ideal for 1, WATER, septic heat, elec, all incld. No smk/pets $600+
12×16 Dry Log Cabin, covered porch, 2349 #2 Steese in Fox, $450 elec & fuel, Absolutely Alaskan Real Estate …
Dry cabin w/ loft & access to shower in Chena Marina, close to bus route. $400/m + util.
Dry, near UAF $450. New win /lam flr/monitor 2575 Wecota, Dakota Cab #1
New 2bd carport, outhouse, carry water. NO SMOKING inside or outside! Farmers Loop, $600/mo.
1 mi to UAF. Like New, 16×20, 2 story, clean, spacious. Carpet, quality kitchen, very warm, no H2O. Must …
Spring Snow
April 15, 2010
April 15 and we are having a sweet little snow shower. Since I don’t know how to embed the video, here is the link to it on my youtube.
Water, water, everywhere.
April 11, 2010
A friend of mine just told me what she was paying to get her water from a local laundry mat. She thought the Water Wagon was just for bulk water. So, I thought I would make a post about how we get our water and snapped some photos when we went to get water this week.
While you can take showers at the laundry mats in town, they are expensive. Also, I just don’t like showering in a place that the general public also showers. I would do it if I needed to but my own little shower set up works quite well.
25 cents filled up the 4 jugs we brought.
Or you can go a short distance from town to the Fox Spring. It’s free. The state regularly tests it. This picture is a few years old. Now the structure is enclosed on 3 sides instead of just covered.
Look out, I’m back online.
April 9, 2010
Well, getting internet even the small distance I am from town, proved to be quite a pissy deal. It ended up costing $300 to get started. But, here I am, happy to be back. I have only one piece of advice, GCI does not know their ass from a whole in the ground.
The cabin is coming along nicely now. I’m still working on it and still sending more stuff that the kids “had to have” to storage. By the time it warms up enough to have bon fire parties out in the the yard, I’ll have it fixed up enough to want to present it to the general public lol.
Here’s the kitchen, with the “water heater” on the stove. It actually heats up enough for showers or dishes in just a few minutes so not as unhandy as I originally thought it would be. Hmmm, that little window shelf sure wants to stay cluttered. It’s just too handy. I have several crystals hanging in my window that throws a million beautiful rainbows over the living room every afternoon.
The outhouse has been updated with a lamp, clock radio, hand sanitizer, drawers, and Christmas lights on the outside. I had the plunger put out there for a conversation piece and though I have removed it now, it still gives me a giggle. Now, I just need to find some blue foam to replace the foam rubber seat that’s in there. Actually, the temperatures are warm enough now to be able to just use the regular seat, but it still would mean a cold ass awakening every time one sat down.
My Easter munchkins.
Last week it warmed up enough for almost all the snow to melt, then yesterday, it snowed several inches. It’s melting again and breakup is officially here. In a week or so, green should be showing up on the mountain I look out at from my front window. A few nights ago I sat here in my living room and watched a nice display of the northern lights. I wish I knew how to take pictures of them. But I’ll get it figured out by next winter for sure.
Moose vs. Outhouse
March 29, 2010
A young moose stopped by for a visit yesterday. It’s a bit surreal, especially when you really have to pee.
Yes, he licked the salt from hands off of the outhouse doorknob.
Showers and moose trottings.
March 21, 2010
We are well moved into the cabin now though I am still working on making it a home and moving stuff from old house into storage. It takes a long time when trying to work and move everything without a truck. We have been able to get everything on the top of the car and inside so far. I am pretty proud of my shower enclosure and think it looks pretty cute as well.
Before the shower set up, this tub made a handy bath. Wish I had a galvanized tub.
Stand in the tub, tuck the shower curtains in, turn on the nice warm water. This enclosure also is where the porta potty is kept… It’s nice that the tub is portable and can sit out on the porch when not in use or doubles as a dirty clothes hamper.
The copper tubing was a piece I found at the transfer site.
A few days ago I was standing at my kitchen sink washing dishes when a moose trotted passed my window right in front of me. It about gave me a heart attack! Here is a picture of a moose at the end of our driveway where it meets the road.
Going offline
March 13, 2010
The cabin has no phone jack. It’s going to be at least next payday until I can get the money to get one put in. So until then, I will only be able to get online during my lunch break at work. That kind of sucks but it is ok. In the long run, the big picture, etc. it’s a good thing. I have too much work to do to spend much time online anyways.
We are settling in well. My daughter has determined that since she has learned to change the bag in the porta potty, she can freely use it. That’s fine with me. I don’t mind. My son is not yet comfortable with the outhouse or the porta potty but likes that I let him pee in the woods. Lol what’s a cabin without a little bit of yellow snow off in the trees?
Last night it was clear out for the first time. I spent a serene hour sitting in my living room with the lights out looking out to the stars. Wish I had a glass of wine to enjoy the stars with. When the northern lights are out, we’ll have a fantastic view. I’ve decided to not put drapes up in the living room/kitchen. We have such big windows in there. It’s actually an adjustment to live without curtains, something I never considered. I spend quite a bit of time in a tshirt and underwear around the house and have to remind myself that I don’t have to dash past the windows lol. I have heavy drapes for the bedroom to keep it warm in the winter and the 24 hours of sunlight out in the summer. It’s not spring yet but our light is returning at a very fast rate. Last night I left the drape next to my bed open a bit so I could look out and up but didn’t see any auroras.
It’s 15 above zero right now. It’s supposed to be 10-25 below tonight and back up into the teens tomorrow. We are getting there.
Sunrise is at 7:16 AM AKST and sunset is 6:45 PM AKST so fairly “normal” division. Tomorrow will be 6 minutes 44 seconds longer. Then of course, daylight savings time will hit tomorrow and screw us all up. I really wish they would do away with that nonsense like Arizona.
My daughter will now be going to the same school that I moved my son to earlier this year. It is a sweet little country school and we can’t wait for her to be there as well. They have worked magic for my son. My daughter loves school and can’t wait to go skiing for PE class. Ice skating if you remember, didn’t work out so well (broke her arm.) They also have a community garden there during the summer. Best thing though, the bus will pick them up at the end of our driveway! So, until next time my dear friends, keep well, keep warm.
Georganne
